After leaving the Zulu parade we headed for the French Quarter to see if we could hook up with the Krewe Of St. Anne's walking krewe. I was hoping we would bump into them as the they made their way across Royal St towards Canal where they traditionally greet Rex King of carnival. Unlike the crowds at the Zulu parade once we entered the French Quarter pretty much everyone we saw was in costume (Note: I had read that on Mardi Gras day you would feel silly if u were NOT in costume- it is very much a participatory event). We made our way thru the crowds to Royal and as luck would have it we met up with the St. Anne's marchng krewe featuring the Storyville Stompers Brass Band. We marched with the crowd across Royal Street and ended up at Canal Street just in time to see the King of the Rex parade coming across Canal- talk about timing! Now it was time to go back across the Quarter to Frenchmen Street. As we walked people were in costume everywhere you looked. Every so often a brass band leading a secondline would come by with a different marching group -what a blast! As we approached Frenchmen St. another marching group with a band was coming towards us. As the band got closer it turned out to be the Preservation Hall Jazz Band! They passed by as fast as they had appeared-altho I did have time to shake Charlie Gabriel's hand and wish him a Happy Mardi Gras- this was really some kind of day. We kept on walking, checked out folks on Frenchmen Street hanging out in costume -now it was time to hear some music- destination: HiHo Lounge to see the Mardi Gras Indian Orchestra. As we waited for the music to start,unfortunately the early hour, long day, walking, excitement- and the adult beverages- started to take its toll. I managed to rally once the music started and the band was great. At one point a group of drummers came in off the street and joined in with the musicians on the stage-the place was really hopping. The band featured Sunpie Barnes who is also the chief of the Northside Skull and Bones gang- so I had started the day walking the streets with him before dawn and now here I was late in the afternoon ending my day watching him up on stage. Pretty cool. Soon we were in a cab and on our way back to my sister's house. Unfortunately, traffic was a nitemare and the cab ride back to Mid-City took forever- altho, on the plus side, it did give me an opportunity to close my eyes and rest on the way . It was the end to a very long and exciting day.
Lundi
Gras- the Monday before Mardi Gras- started out as moving day for my
wife and I. We checked out of our hotel and cabbed it back up to my sister's
Mid-City apartment in the AM. After unpacking and getting re-organized we
headed out for lunch. We had a nice walk along Bayou St. John over to one of
our favorite po boy shops in New Orleans- The Parkway Bakery. Unfortunately, a
lot of other folks seemed to have the same idea so there was quite a line for
lunch. It was well worth the wait-the roast beef po' boy and sweet potato fries
were real good. (Funny story- at the Parkway, you wait in line first to place
your order, pay and then wait for your order to be called; as I listened to
names being called for some of the orders-it appeared folks were using famous
names as a joke- I heard Dean Martin, Bill Murray, etc. I thought it would be
funny to give a New Orleans
related musician name- Dr. John or Professor Longhair seemed to obvious so I
thought I would use famous piano player James Booker’s name when it came time
to order. When I got to front of line, I placed my order, paid and gave my
name. I then went out to the bar to get an Abita Beer to go with lunch and I
heard "Order 95 James Booger...Booger..James Booger"...I could hear laughter
coming over the microphone as well. Anyway, when I went up to the window, all
the staff in the back making the sandwiches were cracking up- they got the
biggest kick out of the name. I let the guy know that it was supposed to be
Booker not Booger- he said he figured as much but Booger was much funnier!). After
lunch, we walked over to Canal St.
to catch a streetcar into town. We were heading for WoldenbergPark on the Mississippi
River to check out the Lundi Gras Festival put on by the ZuluSocial Aid and Pleasure Club featuring food, music and appearances by some of the
main characters in the Zulu Parade which would be tomorrow Mardi Gras morning. The
streetcar was almost full when we got on- lots of folks were heading into town
most likely for the festival as well as for the parades that were going to be
happening later on this afternoon and evening. As we moved down the line
another stop, the streetcar got so full that it no longer stopped for folks
waiting along the route- we had just made it on. We got off near end of line and
walked over to the festival. The park
was pretty crowded- there were 2 or 3 large music stages, food vendors and
crafts tents, etc. We walked around and almost immediately came upon a brass
band and a secondline featuring members of the Zulu club (this one had “The
Governor” in his blue feather suit and headdress-see slideshow below). Anyway,
as I have learned to do in New Orleans,
if you see a secondline, fall in behind to see where it takes you. In this
case, however, it seemed to be leading us from the public area start to a VIP
area that was being opened especially for the secondline members. My wife and I
decided to stay the course and before we knew it we were marching in the parade
behind the barricade along a route that appeared to be heading towards one of
the music stages up ahead. We continued to march along until we were able to drop
back out and move onto the other side of the barricade before getting to the
stage- that was a close call! We walked around a bit more before heading over
to St. Charles
to catch today’s parades. Today’s plan was to see the Tucks parade only (there
were 2 other parades scheduled after but my wife and I were feeling a bit
paraded out – plus, I had read that it is a good idea to end Lundi Gras early
so you can get up real early on Mardi Gras morning for what is typically a long
day). So we met up with our friends Arthur and Ricki and their kids to see the Tucks
parade from our sidewalk side spot (see slideshow below for Tucks pix - parade
was a kick; apparently it was started some years ago by some Loyola University
students and it continues to have a “college” feel with floats and themes that
mostly involve bathroom humor, beer and girls). After Tucks, my wife and I
walked a couple blocks over to catch a city bus back into town. We met my
sister for dinner in the French Quarter- Coop’s Place, really good Cajun food-
and then headed over to Frenchmen St to hear some music. Ended up at the Maison
where we saw Aurora Nealand and the Royal Roses who play traditional New Orleans jazz- nice. Ended
up back at my sister’s house around 11pm and was to bed soon after. Mardi Gras
morning was gonna start early.
...and I was in New Orleans I would most likely head over to Frenchmen Street..Starting at 6pm you can move pretty easily up and down the street, in and out of the clubs- Spotted Cat, d.b.a., Apple Barrel, Blue Nile, Three Muses to name a few- catching whole or partial sets of some of the best musicians in the city. Most clubs have no or low cover charges and you can get a "go" cup and take your drink with you as you move about. Additionally, as the night goes on there is usually a very lively street scene developing which almost always includes a brass band blowing out on a street corner and a impromptu dance party happening out in the street. One of my favorite scenes in New Orleans! (and yes..that did rhyme)....
..ok..so after hanging out at the Mid-City Krewe float den...headed back to my sister's apartment to plan my evening..had researched- as I usually do before a trip to NO- music options for Saturday nite..It turns out I had a rare opportunity to re-create my own little "jazzfest" music tour of Frenchmen Street..so, that's what I did...Started out at 6pm at the Spotted Cat...Panorama Jazz Band (whose album 17 Days was voted one of the Best NO Albums of 2010)...7pm..down the street to Blue Nile to see Washboard Chaz Trio..always a treat!..after 1st set finished, headed up street a bit (only in NO!) to d.b.a to catch John Boutte's set..WOW!..what a show..he gives it his all and place was packed!..at 1st set break- around 9pm- sis calling it a nite..Decide to leave Frenchmen St and head over to the Quarter to One Eyed Jack's..have not been here before and wanted to check out a group- Meschiya Lake and the Little Big Horns- that I have heard about but never seen. So, hoofed it over to One Eyed Jacks and paid my cover..turns out Meschiya Lake is the house band for a variety show..pretty cool..old style club atmosphere- cigarette girls, old time radio announcers and the performers included dancing girls,tap dancers, a magician and comedians..in between band played a couple of songs- lots of fun!..anyway, stayed for 1st set and then decided to head back to Frenchmen St..on the way, this being New Orleans, ran into a wedding second line complete with brass band marching in Jackson Square..how cool!..continued on to Frenchmen ....and as I got closer heard the band- as usual there was a brass band playing on corner of Frenchmen and Chartres St...had to stop to listen and to dance with the gathering crowd..man is this alot of fun..eventually tore myself away and made my way back up Frenchmen Street back to d.b.a. for Lil' Freddie Kings late set..again, place was packed and Freddie was cookin'..don't know any other place that you could even attempt something like this- literally walking from venue to venue -catching even more music outside along the way- all in one evening..boy I love this town...Next Post: So, what do you do on Sunday in New Orleans?....
After leaving the Zulu parade we headed for the French Quarter to see if we could hook up with the Krewe Of St. Anne's walking krewe. I was hoping we would bump into them as the they made their way across Royal St towards Canal where they traditionally greet Rex King of carnival. Unlike the crowds at the Zulu parade once we entered the French Quarter pretty much everyone we saw was in costume (Note: I had read that on Mardi Gras day you would feel silly if u were NOT in costume- it is very much a participatory event). We made our way thru the crowds to Royal and as luck would have it we met up with the St. Anne's marchng krewe featuring the Storyville Stompers Brass Band. We marched with the crowd across Royal Street and ended up at Canal Street just in time to see the King of the Rex parade coming across Canal- talk about timing! Now it was time to go back across the Quarter to Frenchmen Street. As we walked people were in costume everywhere you looked. Every so often a brass band leading a secondline would come by with a different marching group -what a blast! As we approached Frenchmen St. another marching group with a band was coming towards us. As the band got closer it turned out to be the Preservation Hall Jazz Band! They passed by as fast as they had appeared-altho I did have time to shake Charlie Gabriel's hand and wish him a Happy Mardi Gras- this was really some kind of day. We kept on walking, checked out folks on Frenchmen Street hanging out in costume -now it was time to hear some music- destination: HiHo Lounge to see the Mardi Gras Indian Orchestra. As we waited for the music to start,unfortunately the early hour, long day, walking, excitement- and the adult beverages- started to take its toll. I managed to rally once the music started and the band was great. At one point a group of drummers came in off the street and joined in with the musicians on the stage-the place was really hopping. The band featured Sunpie Barnes who is also the chief of the Northside Skull and Bones gang- so I had started the day walking the streets with him before dawn and now here I was late in the afternoon ending my day watching him up on stage. Pretty cool. Soon we were in a cab and on our way back to my sister's house. Unfortunately, traffic was a nitemare and the cab ride back to Mid-City took forever- altho, on the plus side, it did give me an opportunity to close my eyes and rest on the way . It was the end to a very long and exciting day.
